Raf Simons’ first ever show for Dior was without doubt a historical moment, and will be referenced with as much anticipation as Alexander McQueen for Givenchy, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton and no doubt, Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent.
The show itself was a tear-inducing feast which I have marvelled at 9 times on Vogue.com, it really is one of those moments where you are just transfixed in, well, the moment.
Harking back to Christian Dior’s notorious New Look small lapels on forties style jackets was as close to the past as Simons would let us peer. Despite the presence of crinolines under the strapless gowns and full skirts, the collection was nostalgic in the way fashion always is, and as a Couture show it was only right to revisit the glory days of the craft.
The fronts of sleeved dresses were affronted in beaded embellishment to tromp l’oeil effect, creating a strapless cocktail piece,whilst the tops of corset were graphic rigid and protruding, to offset either the embellished fabric or delicate hue. The waist was the focus of the collection, with straight metal waist belts, and exaggerated hips. Both pockets and oversized skirt frames, allowed for the most proper of postures, and the giant gold band chokers and single diamond chunky bangles were the only necessary decoration.
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Jamila xx
blushlondon.co.uk 